On the main drag into Albuquerque, in a swanky neighbourhood called Nob Hill there is a bar. Relatively unassuming, and easy to miss if you aren’t looking out for it, it is a really excellent bar. It is a hub of creativity where cocktails push the limits and where invention and imagination craft new and exciting drinks, often by mistake. That gives the bar its name, Happy Accidents. It is run by one of the most recognisable and influential bartenders out there, Kate Gerwin, herself an epitome of originality and innovation.
It is recognised by what is increasingly becoming the bible of good bars, Worlds 50 Best – appearing on the ‘discovery’ list and is a must-visit for anybody setting foot in New Mexico. And yet, when speaking with Kate recently at a panel for these types of trendy bartenders who drinks manufacturers fall over themselves to woo, there was a feeling that, in her small corner of the world, she is forgotten, cast aside in favour of the swanky New York, Chicago or LA venues where drinks brands fight amongst themselves to gain prestigious listings.
This reflects a sentiment that I have increasingly been sensing across the On Premise, in that the focus of many drinks manufacturers is becoming increasingly concentrated across the few, highly esteemed venues rather than the many. If Kate feels shunned, despite having such a platform and reputation, then one can only imagine the struggles that the more typical neighbourhood bar faces when trying to work with suppliers.
Not only is that a shame for those in the majority, running those high-quality venues that are perhaps overlooked on the international stage, it is also simply a bad business decision. It is a business decision shaped by vanity, rather than sense and a business decision which, when investment in trade support is increasingly questioned, is ill-afforded.
To an extent, I get it. Winning a listing in one of those venues in the top 1% is a buzz. It provides access to a profile of guest that is worth attracting. It gifts an aspirational consumer, who cares about their drinks, seeks out the best of the best and is open to trialling new products. It opens up an opportunity to influence the influencer, to put your product in the hands of the best bartenders and in the eyes of the consumer that spreads the word and recruits the next wave of adopters. Winning in luxury often means winning in premium and winning in the 1% means winning in the next 10%, through ‘trickle-down’ influence, especially if nurtured and set up to do so.
However, behind those benefits lies a less scrupulous one and one in which those bad business decisions may have root. Winning that listing also gives drinks executives an excuse to splash the company card on extravagant visits to those top-tier venues, conveniently located in the hubs of commerce and the home cities of drinks brands’ offices. That rarely extends to Albuquerque.
And if doesn’t extend to Albuquerque, in a country where global drinks manufacturers focus much of their attention then what chance do the best bars in Accra, Antwerp or Adelaide have?
Therein lies a missed opportunity, not necessarily in those hastily Googled cities beginning with ‘A’, but in the vast number of global towns and cities like them that will host swathes of good, if not great, hospitality venues.
Those perceived tier-two locations and those perceived tier-two venues are exactly where brands can most stand out. A listing at, for example, The Connaught Bar is fantastic, but to the bartenders working there and learning about the product, it is simply another good brand amongst the sea of good brands that are fighting for attention. Whereas my hunch is that, in the authentic, yet rough-around-the-edges, neighbourhood bar brimming with locals, attention from drinks brands may well be more appreciated.
In those often-overlooked venues, bartenders will feel the love, will value the efforts and will reciprocate that affection. Invest in these places and stand out to gain the substantial rewards on offer. Yes, it may not be the guest that travels around the world ticking off the most influential bars, but plotting a course to identify and invest in the best of the rest will open up your brand to a wider audience and will generate an army of genuine fans, appreciative of that investment and willing to advocate in return. Focus on these venues and reap long-term rewards, who knows, you may even stumble upon one or two happy accidents.
The expert view
About the author:
Charlie Mitchell, Head of Insights & Consumer Research – On-Premise
Charlie Mitchell is renowned for his On-Premise expertise and understanding of consumer behaviour in the eating and drinking-out sector. With over a decade of experience in On Premise consumer research, he specialises in developing insight to inform winning On Premise strategies. Charlie is responsible for the development of CGA’s global suite of consumer research and insight and is an expert in consultative recommendations based on consumer interaction with the sector; how, when and brands can best influence this. As a sector expert, Charlie brings together both local market and global insights to tell a full picture of the On- Premise.
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